Mikhail Kusnirovich and Ekaterina Moiseeva, owners of Bosco di Ciliegi. Today she does shows for Vetements, Balenciaga and her friend Gosha Rubchinsky. After Rei Kawakubo (Comme DesGarons) took the young Russian designer and photographer under her wing in 2010, he became a household name among the world's fashion buffs. The company representatives stated that the name Ecolux meant nothing to them, and they are not aware of any supplier with such name. Head of the Property Department Vladimir Silkin claimed that TD TSUM gains illegal profits from sales on city territory. At Mercury Group, Leonid Friedland has 1 colleague. Yesterday, the Russian-owned auction house Phillips (which last year realised a best ever $993.3m in auction and private sales) attempted to clear the air on Instagram by posting a statement in support of Ukraine, also posted by Jean Paul Engelen, the firms recently appointed president, Americas and co-head of 20th century and contemporary art. In 2006-2007, the TSUM (principal owner is the luxury retailer Mercury) signed contracts with 24 staffing agencies, all of them using a simplified taxation scheme. Despite Phillips CEO condemning invasion of Ukraine, some argue that only a boycott will force owners to put pressure on Kremlin. CEO and founder of Russian Art Leonid Strunin explained that on terms of contract, his company is entitled to represent the Italy firm Ermeneglido Zegna, retail its products and accept private orders. Former Bonhams C.E.O. Two influentialRussian figures in the global fashion business, Fridlyand and Strunin were amongst the first to establish early franchise and distribution rights for brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Prada within the former Soviet Union. Only a boycott of Phillips sales will get the attention of the world and the owners of Mercury to hopefully influence Putin to change his current chosen course of action. Former gossip editor at Harper's Bazaar Russia and one of the main Russian it-girls, in 2011 Duma established her own online business, which reconciled art with fashion. Olga Karput, creator of the Kuznetsky Most 20 concept store. Both are Russian with their address given as Phillips London headquarters in Mayfair and their countries of residence recorded as Monaco and Cyprus, respectively. We've received your submission. In Russia she has been the face of various brands, from Rado to Carrera y Carrera. "And I haven't seen anywhere such a cluster of luxury goods presented without altering the spirit," says Umberto Angeloni, CEO of Brioni, which already has three stores in Moscow. Ironically, or so it would seem, Phillips also announced on Monday that it would be selling Jean-Michel Basquiats massive Untitled painting from 1982 from the collection of the Japanese billionaire Yusaku Maezawa in its 20th century and contemporary art sale in May in New York . Mercury is run by Leonid Friedland and his associate, Leonid Strunin. Everybody knows about a $40 million buyer`s loan received from Sberbank, when Mercury purchased a building complex in Tretyakovsky proyezd. Most people think Simon de Pury is still the owner., However, Matthew Girling, the former chief executive of Bonhams (he left in 2020) and now an independent consultant, tells The Art Newspaper he believes people should still boycott Phillips over its Russian links. The luxury group started with a 30-square-meter (322-square-foot) shop selling watches that has developed into the current focus on jewelry brands that include Bulgari, Chaumet, Chopard, Graff, de Grisogno and Tiffany. Mercury is also Russia's largest retailer of luxury watches. Owned by Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin, the Moscow-based Mercury Group is the largest luxury retailer in Russia. But some art watchers say thats not good enough. Leonid Strunin. All rights reserved by Rossiyskaya Gazeta. For more updates about the The BoF 500 subscribe to the Daily Digest newsletter. The event and forthcoming auctions will also be a litmus test of feeling towards Phillips, which insists it is business as usual in the face of a boycott by respected figures in the art world. Dtenue depuis 2008 par les Russes Leonid Friedland et Leonid Strunin (propritaires de Mercury Group), Phillips avait t rachete pour prs de 60 millions de dollars au commissaire-priseur et marchand suisse Simon de Pury. While many tended to have traditional tastes, the same source said it was particularly sad as sanctions on Russia, and the clampdown on the movement of money, would halt a growing trend towards collecting and preserving more recent Russian art and history. Br a szankcis listn egyikk sincs rajta, s a cg Instagramra kitett posztja alapjn . 8. Russia has clearly emerged as an important art market., Phillips spokesperson Ariel Childs told ARTnewsletter, We are looking forward to announcing Moscow initiatives which will capitalize on the new arrangement with this major player in Russia.. He is a bit vain, though carefully conceals this fact: his photograph is kept behind the wall of his office and can be shown only to chosen ones. We at Phillips unequivocally condemn the invasion of Ukraine. Also up for auction, according to Londons Telegraph newspaper, are five Monets from the collection of Daniel Snyder, the American owner of the Washington Commanders, formerly known as the Washington Redskins. But there is one Western element that he does not yet see. For more information read our Terms & Conditions and Privacy Policy. We do not expect the recent sanctions to affect our business, a spokesperson for the auction house said, adding that Phillips does not conduct business with any individuals or institutions who are subject to sanctions.. Friedland and Strunin also own the Mercury Retail Group, one of the largest luxury goods retailers in Russia. Phillips, of course is owned by Mercury Group, founded in 1993 by the Russian entrepreneurs Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin who acquired the auction house in 2008, when it was known as Phillips de Pury & Luxembourg, for a reported $60m. Along with the rest of the art world, we have been shocked and saddened by the tragic events unfolding in the region, said Stephen Brooks, Phillips CEO, in a statement to ARTnews. "They are quite young, mostly in their 30s and up to 45, and they are quite well educated about fashion and they would like to know more," Friedland says. Girling, the former Bonhams CEO, said that only a boycott would get the attention of the owners of Mercury to hopefully influence Putin to change his current chosen course of action., We have seen how the world of banking, travel, leisure, sport and culture have responded to the crisis, he told The Art Newspaper. Friedland and Strunin have not been named among the people whose assets are being frozen by the US and UK, though even businessmen who are not being hit with sanctions could face difficulties going forward. Strunin was aware of that, because he has the right of disposal on the off-shore company Vetra Holding account, used as intermediary by said transaction. We want to hear from you! 2023 The Business of Fashion. Yet Leonid Friedland is one of the most powerful men in fashion. Can the art market simply ignore it and carry on as normal?. , Brioni, Balenciaga and Tods. Anyone can read what you share. Litvinova is often called the "Marlene Dietrich of today" and the "Russian icon of style." In 2002 Time magazine placed its owners on the list of 25 most influential people in the world of fashion. With questions lingering about how businesses of all kinds will be impacted, the auction house Phillips, which is owned by Russian luxury retailer Mercury Group, has said it doesnt expect sanctions to affect its operations. Owned by Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin, the Moscow-based Mercury Group is the largest luxury retailer in Russia. We have seen how the world of banking, travel, leisure, sport and culture have responded to the crisis. He is also the founder of TSUM Art Foundation. Art consultants in London this week who did not want to be named, say they are busier than ever although there may be fewer Russians buying. He didn`t pay for the suits. Owned by Leonid Friedland and Leonid Strunin, Mercury Group is Russia's largest luxury retail company. Born in 1969, Strunin is the Chairman of Mercury, the largest Russian luxury retailer, selling watches and clothes as well as cars. Immediately after high school, 17-year-old Volkova went to study at London's Central Saint Martins and in 2004 founded her own brand, Lotta Skeletrix, which made collections of street clothes in the postpunk style. Asked if he thought the Russian ownership label would harm Phillips's reputation, Albert Biton, a New York private dealer active in the auction trade tells The Art Newspaper: No, it wont affect their business because art collectors are not that thoughtful about it. As for the multiple overpricing of luxury goods, in comparison with its producing country, there is no crime, because one is free to price the goods as far as they meet a ready sale. The post quoted a message from Stephen Brooks, the auction house's chief executive: We at Phillips unequivocally condemn the invasion of Ukraine. Other groups and brands, including LVMH, Richemont and Richard Mille have not replied. The actions, the department said, impose severe economic costs that will have both immediate and long-term effects on the Russian economy and financial system designed to isolate Russia from international finance and commerce. The executive order targets roughly 80 percent of all banking assets in Russia. They provided the donation but its really not back to business as usual, and I think buyers and consignors should take their business elsewhere. After Borodin had left, Skuratov counted the money to realize that he was given back the same $10.000. Today she continues to publish the magazine and also works as creative consultant for clients such as Kanye West. Phillips is listed by Companies House as having two owners "with significant control" - Leonid Fridlyand and Leonid Strunin - Russians who give their address as the company's Mayfair . Mr Fridlyand and Mr Strunins connection to the watch and jewelry world has not been widely reported but the art world has reacted strongly and is calling for collectors to boycott Phillips auctions, which has flagship operations in Geneva, New York and London. Friedland says that he is mulling expansion to St. Petersburg and also of rolling out department stores across the former Soviet Union. All my money goes into art, he said. Phillips has said it doesnt expect sanctions to affect its business. Previously, de Pury was the majority shareholder. They say that until recently, this luxury trader has enjoyed bringing his Mom to the high-end parties, that certainly speaks volumes for him, as well as the Mercury annual turnover, estimated at $150 million. More assertive action needs to be taken to try and stop what is going on in Ukraine. Renata Litvinova, actress, director and creative director at the Numro Russia magazine. With an expanding market of eager, upbeat consumers, as opposed to retailers on shrinking budgets in the morose Western markets, Mercury's buyers are becoming luxury fashion's big spenders. Skuratov himself decided how many suites he needed to purchase. Skuratov was very worried about the fact that his suits were paid by Mabetex, and he gave Borodin $10.000 pay-in, asking for the receipt. Russian Vogue wrote about the 33-year-old stylist from Vladivostok saying that, " she introduced the 'new Russian' style of 'guys from the neighborhood' to high fashion.". Later a caf opened in the concept store. Set in grounds of over 80,000 square metres complete with hotels, spas and a concert hall, the village also boasts a dedicated shopping street lined with brands such as Friedland and Strunin, who are not subject to any sanctions, list their addresses on Companies House as the Berkeley Square headquarters of Phillips, which was acquired in 2008 by their Russian luxury goods company, Mercury Group. "Stealth wealth is not working yet in Russia," Friedland says. Mr Fridlyand and Mr Strunin are also owners of Mercury Retail Group, one of the largest retail conglomerates in Russia with 125,000 employees, according to its website, mainly in supermarkets and convenience stores. From talking to Pacolli, he learned about the sum of approximately $30.000 paid for the suits. The artist always plays a prominent role in the twice-yearly contemporary sales in New York, but this season his work saw a phenomenal turnover of $181m, almost a third of the week's total proceeds. UK freezes assets of seven Russian oligarchs including Roman Abramovich, Original reporting and incisive analysis, direct from the Guardian every morning. The holding company runs a chain of luxury stores across the country,. Although Friedland does not give figures, sources in Moscow suggest that Mercury's annual turnover is $300 million outstripping its competitors in the luxury field. "People already had a great sense of taste and quality; it has always been there and how could luxury die?" In an interview with The 'Russian owned' Art Newspaper he suggested that it "will get the attention of the world and the owners . The holding company runs a chain of luxury stores across the country . Mercury also holds the Moscow Central Universal Department Store (TSUM), a chain of boutiques and stores in Moscow and regions. 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